Chapter 3 - High hot Summer in the Mid-States

Ahh Harper's Ferry! Here I was 80 miles north of where Cara picked me up. But I wasn't skipping a section, I was just dropping off my car before getting a shuttle to Front Royal to fill in a gap.

I had gone home for nearly a week to re-access my devotion to the Appalachian Trail. Did I really want to complete this journey? I was so close to finishing half of it, I might as well go back and do a week of hiking to Harper's Ferry and see how I feel, right? The more days I had been at home the more convinced I wanted to go back out. Not just for myself, but also for all the people that had heard me gush endlessly about how awesome the Trail is.
I made some changes to my gear, I plotted low mile days, and I had my car to walk back to - I had an easy out if I was still in a bad mental spot.
I brought a hammock and began sleeping in that, and would continue sleeping in a hammock comfortably and happily the rest of the trip. I slept more deeply off the ground, I didn't wake up nearly as much, I felt safer and more relaxed - possibly this was psychological, but whatever the case, it was a great boon to get good night sleep.
During this experimental week the temperatures sky-rocketed. There were some 105 heat index days. I would hike slowly and drink a ton of water, I went so far as to try to breathe only though my nose to conserve as much moisture as possible.
With the terrible memories of Shenandoah behind me I felt like I was entering a new chapter, a happier chapter - some kind of corner had been turned. There was still rain, humidity, heat, and bugs but I felt better armed. The hike to the Roller Coaster was easy, and the Roller Coaster was fun even in the extreme heat. I had hiked portions of this and it was fun to be walking down memory lane remembering that root and that rock.

Summer was upon me, not only was the heat crushing, in places the forest became jungle-like. That had been a problem in Shenandoah, as it is impossible to find a good camping spot in a jungle. Another advantage of a hammock is the ground doesn't need to be flat, just two trees 16 to 20 feet apart, relatively clear of brush in between. The campsites in Northern VA became nicer and more frequent, there was less over-use, the tent pads no longer muddy pits and plenty of stealth sites in-between. I still wasn't seeing too many other hikers, but more than I was previously. Right before the Roller Coaster began I decided to hike over a few hills before calling it a night - good thing I had as the shelter area had close to 30 people at it and I had a silent hill-top campsite to myself!

Time began speeding up again, the feeling of running through water departed. I passed the 1000 mile mark, I passed out of Virginia, I saw a bunch of Trail I had seen before, and drew closer and closer to Harper's Ferry! I sped down the hill and over the Shenandoah River into Harper's Ferry, I hiked in to the ATC headquarters to be photo graphed and numbered! In a few short days I felt huge leaps and bounds of progress where I had felt like I was making no progress at all just a week before. My heart was back in it, I wanted to see what was around the next corner again.
I took my car back home that weekend and had Cara drop me back off on Sunday. I had a lot of things to look forward to in the next few weeks. Cara was coming back out to see me in a couple weeks, my brother was meeting me on July 2nd to hike with me, my friend Jon was looking to meet up with me, and my birthday was rapidly approaching!

Southern Pennsylvania was great! The terrain is fantastic, and I have such fond memories of being here when I was a kid and I passed the real half way point! Additionally there were snack bars at the state parks I was passing through. I had some relatives come and pick me up from Caledonia and I stayed the night at their place, they also had gifts of dried fruits and beef jerky!

I could of pushed big miles and sailed through the state, but I was meeting my brother in Duncannon and so I was forced to do small days, sleep in start late and finish early! It was great. I could stop for long lunches, soak in the beauty, and talk with other hikers. I stopped at Pine Grove Furnace for several hours just shooting the breeze with some hikers. I made a friend with Animal, a great guy that carried a 5 Gallon bucket full of food in one hand all the way from Georgia! I would see him off and on all the way through CT.
Boiling Springs was achieved by crossing through a series of fields, and following a road into downtown. I talked to a guy there that was interested in sharing a room at the Allenberry Resort just up the road. Rooms were $40, split I could turn that down. The place turned out to be fantastic! All you can eat buffet, a playhouse, a pool, situated on a gorgeous river. This place really looks out for hikers and I will definitely be going back.

After the nice stay at the Allenberry I did a short hike to Carlisle and met with Cara, the heat had gone way up again, so the 9 miles in 100+ degree heat was draining, but the AC at the hotel room fantastic! The next day Cara and I did an out-and-back section hike. The bugs were miserable, flying in our eyes and ears and it wasn't fun dealing with them. I'd wished I could have taken her on a better hike, but there wasn't much around, the views were poor, and very hot. Mostly, though, when she came and visited I didn't want to hike! I wanted a day of rest!
I walked in the Doyle, famous for its good food and terrible accommodations and cheap booze. I picked up my drop box that was there and bought a round for the guys there... I wanted to get a round of Jonnie Walker, but alas, Jim Beam had to do! The town of Duncannon, so close to Harrisburg, had a desperate feel. The houses leaned on each other for support, decaying under the summer, the people hidden in the dilapidated homes. The Trail goes right through the town for almost a mile before crossing the Susquehanna, on the other side of town I came to a rough looking cement building, the place claimed to sell ice cream, and be a nude bar, just as seemingly desperate as the rest of the town.

The following day Kevin got dropped off by Jen to come and hike with me. He had plans to hike for a couple weeks, but left it open ended. He brought along Chloe, his dog, to accompany us. I love hiking with my brother, we always hike well together with a similar pace and good conversation. Despite the heat and the lack of views and the endless green tunnel I enjoyed myself immensely. It was so nice to watch 'Paws of Fury' (aka Chloe) wind her way through rocks, and see how well behaved she was while we hiked. We made good campsites, and dodged afternoon rain-storms. Kevin and Chloe had enough room to bunk with me under the tarp and hammock, so he was able to travel light too.

Chloe really knew how to be a hiker. If we took a break, she took a nap!

We spent the 4th of July at the 501 shelter, I had originally thought I would be there for my birthday - so despite 9 days off recently and going slow to sync up with Kevin I was still 9 days ahead of schedule! We went to a clearing that over looked a valley into eastern PA and watched the fireworks of locals and of the surrounding towns. That night Mother Nature gave us an even louder and more dramatic display by having a large lightning storm roll over! We slept in the shelter that night and stayed dry and safe. That was one of the few shelter stays I enjoyed and the last as well!

Sometimes PA was full of rocky trail, though more often it was not. There would be short sections as in the picture above followed by very long sections on old logging roads where we were able to cruise. We followed several very long ridges with little elevation deviation, which was quite nice. We dropped off one of these ridges into Port Clinton where we were to meet Jon Banks for a hotel stay. I went into Port Clinton to get a drop box... that wasn't there! Or maybe it was and they just couldn't find it. The box eventually was shipped back home and it arrived 2 days after I finished the Trail! Fortunately I had a buddy coming and we had wheels to go grocery shopping! My brother was developing some painfully blisters and decided to go home. He'd been out for a week, we'd done some awesome miles and had a lot of fun. I was going to really miss him as a hiking partner, but I understood he had an out and he was taking it!

Jon and I had a good relaxing weekend. He brought me a bottle of whiskey, he took us to Yuengling for a brewery tour, we had good food at nice restaurants, he dropped me off for a 6 mile slack pack, and went to Cabelas for provisions. He even carried my pack for me up to the Trail when he was dropping me off!

It was great and really nice of him to come see me. Having friends come visit buoys the spirit. The nights I'd stayed in the hotel with Jon a storm had come through. From inside it had seemed small, the clouds dark, and the rain hard but it didn't seem like much. The following day on the Trail there were trees down all over the place, including in the shelter areas over top of where people sometimes setup tents! I'm very glad no one got hurt that I heard about.

Back on the Trail on my own, very well rested, well fed and with a week of PA left; I was still waiting for the 'Rocks of Pennsylvania' to begin. I had heard so many horror stories, and past hikers crying how terrible it was that maybe I was expecting worse. Maybe since I had so many mental diversions I failed to become annoyed, but 3/4 of the state behind me I was still waiting for the rocks to begin! I was looking for them so hard, I did a blue blaze loop to a views and finally found the rocks! They aren't on the AT!!

The same day that I traversed the blue blaze where the rocks actually were I also went through a sections that had 17 miles without water. I went over a scoring cliff climb, the best views in PA, of the Super Fund (more like SUPER FUN SITE!) and followed an open ridge dripping with ripe berries to Wind Gap. Supposedly there was a hotel that allowed hikers to fill up their water bottles for free. Incorrect. The hotel claimed they had no tap water and one could by 8 oz of water for 1.25. Ouch. I'd been depending on that. Coming out of Wind Gap the rocks finally began. For the next 6 miles the Trail followed a literal river of rocks, every step painful. I had dreams of moving to Wind Gap and shuttling people around this terrible section. I had dreams of coming back and removing the rocks for future hikers. At the end of a very long strenuous hot day with no water in sight I finally got annoyed at Pennsylvaniaian rocks! But after that section they disappeared again and the Trail to Delaware Water Gap was pleasant.

Sometimes PA had a hint of New England

My boots, my constant companions for over 1500 miles finally gave up. DWG had two outfitters, both with small selections of footwear. I decided on getting the Solomon's and I made the right call! They treated my feet right the rest of the trip (unless they got water-logged, then they'd eat my feet alive).I still had a few days until my birthday weekend and I decided to make a few miles into New Jersey before getting a rental car and heading back to Hershey, PA to meet Cara. New Jersey was gorgeous to begin with, after getting beyond Sunfish Pond the ridgelines opened up with grasses and great views, and more BEARS!

The rocks in New Jersey were worse and more frequent than in PA. I wasn't sure how PA got the bad wrap?! After the Trail passed out of the DWG National Recreation Area, it became much more mundane, more green tunnel. But that was OK! It was a short state and in a couple days I'd be in NY! But first I jumped off the Trail for 3 days to go see Cara!

Part 4

Chapter 2 - The Good the Bad: Virginia

Things on the Trail sometimes take days to catch up to you. I was pushing hard and making good miles. I also wasn't eating enough calories, my appetite hadn't kicked into high gear yet, and the foods I had were occasionally disgusting me. I had bags and bags of almonds that I had stopped eating. Honey Stinger protein bars I had to choke down. Clif bars were lumps of re-processed bear poo in my mind.
I did some big days over massive mountains, over Unaka Mountain one day, the next over Roan, Little Hump, and Hump. The day after my energy waned quickly, over easier terrain I made it to a hostel that I hadn't planned on staying at, but the lure of rest and 'real' food was enchanting. I skipped most of my lunch that day and when I got to the hostel I bought a pizza cooked it and then couldn't eat that either, I just had absolutely no appetite for it. I put it in bags and took it with me the next day. What I was able to eat, however, was a pint of Ben and Jerry's. I knew I had to eat something, between the listlessness and lower miles, I was in need of the energy. That night at 3am I got up to a roiling stomach, I ran to the privy and lost the ice cream in a matter of seconds. Not only had I now skipped a meal or two I couldn't keep food down!
I still had the specter of making it to Damascus in a few days to meet Dan. I had tried to build in an extra day for myself to get there and take a half day off before he got there, but to do that I had been pushing pushing pushing everyday. The day after I got sick I was only able to make 11 miles, figuring if I felt better I could make up the lost time. I came to a road crossing at Dennis Cove Rd, I could turn right and get a private room or left and go to Kincora hostel; I was hiking with a guy that was going to Kincora and decided to follow him there. I made a mistake! I was able to eat, get a ride to a grocery store for some town food, but the place was very crowded, it had rained during the day so many hikers were showing up for a roof as well. I went to bed early feeling very run down and in need of a good sleep, which I couldn't get. First one extremely self-inflating girl wouldn't shut up about her awesome exploits, most of which were about how she had no money and went from town to town to play her instrument to get some spending cash to go up the Trail to the next town. Then Tree Piper showed up. This guy had already made a name for himself at Uncle Johnny's when he stayed up all night playing (extremely poorly, I should add) a recorder. A recorder, like the one almost every 1st grader is forced to play for a year. High-pitched and shrill, he whistled his recorder into the night directly below the bunk room despite numerous pleadings by people and Baltimore Jake to stop. On top of this the hostel was overrun by cats, which would be fine if any of them had been treated with Frontline; they hadn't been and were covered in fleas. I didn't sleep deeply or well and was out as early as I could be. My energy sucked even worse, and it was raining and I was now behind schedule with no hope of a day off and doubt whether I could even make it to Damascus in time. On top of all that, looking at a map I noticed the Trail went up 2000 feet and down 2000 feet in a matter of 6 miles over Pond Mountain with no views, or a road walk of 2 miles to skip that entire pointless mountain. Frustrated I decided to walked to Hampton, TN and got a shuttle to Damascus and to take a zero. I felt very bad that I was even contemplating a Yellow Blaze, but the more I thought about how little fun I was having and how much I was really hurting myself to the point of possibly having to quit the more I can to terms with the necessity of jumping to Damascus. I missed 46 miles of TN. I missed the border of VA. I have every intention of going back a couple days before Trail Days next year and hiking in to complete that gap!

Right before Pond Mountain, a mt I have not climbed

I rented a room at a house downtown, and I was the only one staying there, so the entire house was mine! I was able to relax and walk the small town to get food and look in the outfitters for a new tent. Sundog had a Black Diamond Ultra Lite tarp tent that could easily fit both Dan and myself and was only a pound. I bought it and packaged the old heavy tent to send home with Dan's wife. Because the tarp was floorless I bought a piece of Tyvek to lay on the ground to sleep on top of and keep clean.
Dan arrived at around noon a day later. He was very excited to begin his first backpacking trip. I was excited to be doing smaller days, and to be hanging out with a good friend! This was what my body needed, a nice easy pace and realistic goals.

Dan took to hiking like a duck takes to water. He soon found himself a laurel branch to use as a hiking staff, and he really enjoyed the woods around him. We stopped often that first day to enjoy the warm sun, and look at whatever there was to look at. The Trail side slabbed a mountain before descending back to a bike trail and following that for a bit over an old railroad bridge. The trees in the area are big and old and our first campsite lay beneath a pine stand, the soft needles making for a great bed with the new tent.
The next week was lots of fun. Woodteeth (as became Dan's Trail name) and I had good conversation, and fun adventures. On Grayson Highlands we were transported to Scotland. The blowing wind and mist, around the low scrub brush, and the ponies visiting out of the mist was other-worldly.

Despite having rain for a couple days, or spirits were high and the miles rolled easily. Here we stood on the highest mountain in Virginia, and we had hardly gotten winded getting there. We came over balds and through wind swept scrub pine forest on some of Virginia's most interesting terrain. We were meeting cool people and seeing them almost daily, another thing that hadn't happened often during the first 500 miles of this trip. There was a sense of excitement in the air. Trail Days was approaching the following weekend, and many hikers were hiking south to get there, or planning on getting shuttles or hitches from Marion, VA. We saw more people this week than I had seen for weeks previously. The woods were alive with spring and festival excitement.

Towards the end of the week I presented Dan with an option to do a 20 mile day to get to Partnership Shelter, a famous shelter that has a shower, is two stories, and most importantly can get pizza delivered to it. He was game and we woke early and rolled through those miles. We made awesome time and were at the shelter by early afternoon, that was the quickest most comfortable 20 miles I'd done yet! We had plenty of time to get a good tent spot under some pine trees, order a pizza, get soda from the vending machine, and mingle with a bunch of hikers. I was taking the same amount of time off that most of these hikers were also taking off, I expected I would see them on the other side of the weekend. When I came back from Cara's birthday weekend and they came back from Trail Days. I, however, didn't see them again. Nor did I ever hear about most of them ever again. One kid I saw again doing a day hike in Connecticut after quitting. The rest I either out-paced or never got back on after Trail Days. I would be stuck in a hiker-free bubble after my time with Dan, always a day ahead or a day behind a bunch of people I could never seem to sync up with. But that is a story for later!

 Dan and I enjoyed fantastic weather the last couple days, walking though fields and lowlands as we came down out of the highlands of VA. We approached Atkins not wanting our hiking time to be over, but as inevitably happens, time grows short and life must resume.
I had a rental car come pick us up at a gas station in Atkins and we drove back towards Richmond where I would drop Dan off and continue on home to spend a long weekend with Cara for her birthday. We went to Southeast PA and went hot air ballooning, from 3000 feet up in the basket I could see the mountains I would be hiking on in a few weeks. I wondered if I could see the balloon from those mountains?

The answer was 'maybe' - I did see a balloon way off in the distance, just barely visible to the eye, I could tell it was red, but there was no way to know if that was ours. But I'd like to think that it was!

After that wonderful weekend, I began eating even more. I went to the grocery store with Cara and she pointed out some things I should add. I now was carrying bagels and wraps, protein powder and cream cheese. I was determined to start eating better. Here I was 40 days in and 20 pounds lighter! I looked sickly, my face hollow. Cara was concerned for my health, as was I. If I lost any more weight I would probably have to quit, I was on the brink of starving myself!
Thus armed with caloric goodness I arrived back in Atkins late in the afternoon and began hiking north once more, the whirlwind weekend of nice restaurants, floating weightlessly in the sky, and sleeping in my bed after a nice trip to a winery passed in a snap, a dream come and gone too quickly. I did have the promise of seeing Cara again in a few short weeks near Roanoke or somewhere around there, before or after. I was determined not to set a hard date and place as I had previously!
I hiked through a spring that was quickly heating towards summer, Southern VA passes over dozens of stiles, having a right of way through pastures.

The Trail would ascend a ridgeline and follow a ridgeline for many miles before going down through the pastureland again. The Trail was so easy, however there were very rarely any views, and the heat and humidity were making for stinky sticky nights. The bugs were beginning to come out more, sleeping in a floorless tent made for some interesting visitors. I wonder what crawled over me while I slept?

I was occasionally having bouts of doubt about continuing. I became very lonely and bored with the terrain. I think I would have loved this section had I had a partner to hike with. As it was I was fighting the Trail again. I was frustrated at the lack of views, I was wanting harder terrain just to occupy my mind. I would be exuberant on a cool beautiful morning, with a campsite alone and a view to die for.

Then I would start hiking and get frustrated all over again. This elusive bubble of hikers I kept hearing about from section hikers heading south, "There's 10 hikers just a day ahead". So I did big miles again, and with the addition of more food I was physically able to push through and not get weak. I was running into my mental barriers now, I was fighting loneliness and an urge to be done with the Trail.
A hike of this length puts a person through all these trials. Here I was at close to 700 miles and I was still just getting my head wrapped around it. My body was just getting adjusted to the trek, my mind wasn't there yet! Virginia just seemed to keep on going with very little change in scenery. The rolling hills, the pasture land, and the long seemingly boring ridge walks. The green tunnel, as it is so aptly called.

Smiley on one of the many pasture walks

I went to Woods Hole Hostel and loved it there, I took a blue blaze to get to a store and see Dismal Falls, I stayed in Pearisburg and was depressed at what a shithole the place turned out to be. I did some good days, and was generally happy, but lonely. I pushed and got to McAfee Knob one evening, only 2 other people were up there. I know that place can be a mad-house so I was glad about the timing, also glad there was someone there to take my picture on the most photographed spot on the Trail!

Dragons Tooth and McAfee Knob in one day, followed by Tinker Cliffs and getting into town to meet up with Cara the next. This part of Virginia became really exciting! After all that time of boredom I was making progress, moving through Virginia. I had even hiked the next section before. I had hiked the part following the Blue Ridge Parkway up to Thunder Ridge shelter with my brother in 2005.
I spent a good weekend with Cara, visiting the first annual Trail Days in Troutville, VA, finding a fun winery, and just riding around enjoying ourselves.

Back on the Trail after a nice weekend I got to James Face Wilderness area, and was back into new territory again heading down to the James River. I thought after the spectacular sights of Tinker Cliffs that maybe the Trail would spice up again, but I quickly sank back into my 'green-tunnel-funk' the days passing much like the one before. The pastures and ridge-walks not all that different. I started doing even bigger miles, I could feel the halfway point just ahead, I felt like I was in my back yard, connecting different sections I had hiked before, like the Three Ridges Wilderness area, and having driven down the Blue Ridge Parkway. I pushed and pushed and the scenery didn't change much, I did several marathon+ days, just because I could. This part of Virginia felt like running in water at the time though. I would do a bunch of really big days, feel great, look on the map and see I still had a LOT of Virginia left!
I finally made it to Shenandoah and pushed to get through there as fast as I could. I was still alone every day and night, the campsites were no good, I would wake up frequently from bugs and the thought of bugs. My mental state was quickly deteriorating. I was passing views, just a few tenths off the Trail, but I had this desire to make this big miles so I wouldn't stop. I had mile fever and wouldn't pull up to go and look at what the Trail had to offer.
Anthony and Liz came and visited after my first and only 29 mile day, I slept illegally in a picnic area close to Big Meadows where we met the following day. I ate a lot and we rock scrambled and hiked down to a waterfalls. It was a good day to see some of the sights I had been missing.

After they left the weather turned and the campsites got worse, I pushed and found myself on the front of PATC cabin in the mist and rain. The next day was worse, blowing mist and rain, but still way too hot for rain gear. I was frustrated and determined to get out of Shenandoah. I hiked along the Skyline some and some on the Trail, as they were so close as to be indistinguishable. A guy stopped and offered me a ride, and Cara later called and determined that she was coming to get me that afternoon, there must have been a note in my voice that gave me away. I spent the day in a hotel in Front Royal watching the rain fall outside. Cara got me we drove home.

I wasn't sure if I was coming back. Part of me wanted to call it right then and not see any more of the Trail, to get a good night sleep in a bed, to eat good food, and be with the one I love...

Part 3

Chapter 1 - The South has a lot to teach

I have finished hiking the Appalachian Trail, as you know if you've been following this site. However, in the entire ~150 days I posted only a handful of pictures.

I want to publish a few posts reflecting on the trip, as well as showing the pictures and telling the story thru the pictures. Pictures are worth a thousand words, as the cliche expression goes, but it is true that a picture will jog the memory, even a blurry one (don't worry, I will let them jog away, but won't bore you with those!).

I began in Georgia, as that is where the Appalachian Trail begins (or ends). My brother and his girl-friend Jen drove me down and dropped me off. I stood at the Southern Terminus on a cool spring morning full of anticipation with maybe a little trepidation.

Left alone, I began hiking. My excitement level was through the roof! I came to the first shelter and found a pile of junk people had lugged only this far before ditching. Someone had written a sign: 'Free to a Good Home'

In my excitement I hiked 16 miles! Much further than I should have. I would pay for my exuberance for weeks afterwards. I developed a fairly painful tendon in my right knee from over-use, going downhill became quite painful. All the way through the Smokies I would still get pings of pain.
The first couple nights I camped in stealth sites, not at shelters. I was a bit in shock after my initial happiness wore off. I started to comprehend the monumental task still before me, I began to feel the loneliness and the want of the company of home. The first few nights I slept well, though away from other people. I had big plans to stay out of towns, not stay at shelters, and be strong and resilient and alone. I wasn't against meeting people, I just wanted to prove to myself, at least this early in the game, that I could do it and not fall into a group as many were around me.
I viewed the sights by myself, and had only me to enjoy the breadth of the land below me from the top of Blood Mountain.

the Privy was the cliff?

The same day that I was at the top of Blood Mountain was also the same day I became extremely low. I made my way down the mountain to Mountain Crossings in Neels Gap. I picked up a drop box of food that contained 7 days worth of food. I made a huge error. The 7 days worth of food could've ended up being enough food to feed 2 people for 14 days! I had over-packed so much! I didn't realize it until that evening. I carried a nearly 50 pound pack over several mountains, I did 16 miles that day, over half with the massive heavy pack. Exhausted, at another campsite alone, having a couple other hikers pass me like I was standing still, with a dinner that I had no appetite for that could have fed four people. I was lonely, had no cell phone signal to say "hi" to Cara. I was very frustrated. After burying a few dinners (I know, not LNT!) and leaving some bars at Hogpen Gap for hikers that may actually be hungry, I began making mental lists of items in my pack I no longer wanted to carry. Three days in and I was already dreaming of a light pack. Even in the nice weather I was having I was struggling up and down the Georgia mountains! I was not is shape for this, and though I did eventually got in better shape, I always dreamed of a lighter pack!

Blue Mountain Shelter was the night I decided to stay near a shelter, and glad that I did. I talked with people, I made friends in common misery, I found other hikers much more ill prepared than I, and I heard about some Trail Magic  happening at Tray Gap the next day. Being around other hikers was a balm. I still, thankfully, had enough sense to stay out of the shelters. I did eventually stay in shelters during this trip, but only a handful of times, and most of those times I regretted it!

First stay at a shelter area

The following day I made it to 'B' Team - a support team for a group of section hikers called the 'A' Team. Armed with a pancake breakfast I was well armed to continue a long day ending over a very steep mountain (Kelly Knob) at the end of the day.

I ponder whether I have 'Swag'

Of those times that I spent in shelters, one was right after I did a few monumental things in one day. I made mile 100 at Albert Mountain! I hiked in a hail, rain, and lightening storm! I hiked an 19 mile day! I also talked to my folks and setup a time for them to come and meet me on the Trail, after 8 or 9 days without a real resupply, day off, bed, or shower, I was in desperate need of any one, or preferably, all of those! Another hiker said, "Wow! We've been to every town in Georgia!" to which I said, "There's towns in Georgia?" I didn't stop at any.

Raining hard whilst I'm dry in a shelter

View from Albert Mt fire tower... post thunder storm!

I met Hotshot, with whom I jumped and was passed by later on at Siler Bald Shelter. He and I would hike together at the end of the Smokeys and beyond. I would also see him again in Monson, ME after not seeing him for months! Also from this time was a hiker by the name of Teddy Bear - I would see him coming south bound at the end of August! The community and familiar faces that cropped up at unexpected times was heart-warming and one of the best parts of the Trail.
After Albert Mt I was feeling like a big man, getting my Trail legs and ready for a big day. I decided to hike to the NOC and do a 23 mile day, by far my longest day. I made good time, by late in the day I was standing on the brink of a long steep down hill into the rafting resort. I was exhausted but I figured all down hill wouldn't be bad. The Trail followed a ridge, going up steeply, before losing the altitude, only to gain it back. I was so frustrated! The Trail finally descended down into the valley, I went as fast as I could, imagining burgers and a bed waiting for me. As I crossed the road I noticed that the 'Open' sign on the restaurant was extinguished - aghast I hurried over and dropped my pack. They had closed 5 minutes earlier!! But, being hiker friendly, they still served me a burger! I inquired about lodging and was told they had no vacancy (FUTURE THRU-Hikers TIP: come to find out later this was untrue - if you ever find yourself at the NOC and need a room, go to the dorms and look for an empty bed knock on doors, I spoke with several hikers that slept in rooms that had 3 empty beds!). Mark, my server, offered me a spare bedroom at his place, he has a hot-tub and beer on tap! I accepted his most gracious offer and was rewarded after a very difficult arduous and trying day!
My parents came and met me at Stecoah Gap a day after; we got a motel room and took me to a buffet. They sent some items home for me and we got some needed items from stores far from the Trail. The next day they hiked with me to the part of the Trail known as Jacob's Ladder before turning back. I was very happy to see familiar faces and to be able to include them in the journey. They were both very supportive of this trip. My dad would follow me daily using my SPOT GPS to track me, if I skipped a day or forgot to turn it on I would get a text message soon after, "People want to know where you are, Jon".

I made it to Fontana Dam and stayed at the Lodge there. I was finding that, (FUTURE THRU-Hikers TIP:) if the opportunity presents it self and you are in a position to afford it, stay in comfort, there are plenty of days to sleep in the woods! The next day Jimmy (aka Flip) left his car in Hot Springs, NC and got a shuttle to Fontana to hike the Smokeys with me. It was quite a nice change to have a hiking partner! The Smokeys were high, tough mountains. We faced blowing flurries, hail the size of golf balls, and winds that knocked over a dozen trees on to the Trail. At the time I figured the Trail was going to be this spectacular most of the time, I took for granted what the Smokeys were, the difficult terrain and high mountains wouldn't be seen again for over a thousand miles! Flip came prepared with gourmet foods and it was a great motivator to be hiking with a friend. Looking back, that time on the Trail was one of the best sections of the trip. We also had great views from Clingmans Dome... just hours after Hotshot, who had no views at all.

During this time I was suffering from my second ailment of the trip: shin splints. Going down hill was torture and really slowed us down. We still made a solid 17 mile day in the Smokeys, and by the last day I had finally pushed through the painful swelling and got relief. After we hiked triumphantly from the National Park we got a shuttle from Standing Bear Hostel back to Hot Springs and we drove to Asheville for some R&R.
Back on the Trail alone, I ran into Hotshot almost immediately and we hiked together for the next few days.

Between the edge of the Smokey's and Hot Springs I had changed batteries (might I add expensive) on the Steripen, and it stopped working. I had spoken with several other people who had similar experiences. I went in the outfitters in Hot Springs and they said they had stopped carrying Steripen for awhile because every one they sold was returned! Wow, not good P.R. I bought Aquamire chlorine drops and used them for the rest of the Trail with ease. Every outfitter everywhere carries Aquamire (except REI for some reason!!), and the drops lasted nearly a month and were cheap and light weight, they didn't have a strong after taste either.

Hot Shot on Max Patch

While on the border of NC and TN I stayed in my first hostel: Hemlock Hollow. The place was run by a retired couple, very nice once you got to know them. I got the impression that often times hikers had acted like they deserved special treatment and they were wary to open up, but once they found they could trust you they became a lot more pleasant. I did a my first (and only until Pennsylvania) slack pack. Slack packing is leaving your pack and doing a day hike back to where you started. The draw back of slack packing is that it burns through cash - 2 nights at the same place, plus shuttle rides two days in a row. I did enjoy doing 19 miles without a pack on though!

On the road back to Hemlock Hollow

 I had gotten away from Hotshot at Hemlock Hollow, he had to go home for the day to take care of some business, and I was looking forward to hiking alone again. I was trying to push myself to get to Damascus to meet my friend Dan, who wanted to come hike with me. The Trail was good, spring was blooming all around me, really showing its gorgeous face. The sights were pretty, I was going over those awesome southern balds, my Trail legs were getting stronger, and I thought I was adjusting well. Little did I know my body was still in shock from the adjustment of hiking every day. My weight was plummeting and my energy levels would soon be following...

Part 2

Advise to Thru hikers in the Making

In hindsight I should have taken a more laid back approach to tackling the Appalachian Trail. Most of my planning and research was nearly useless. Of course all the planning kept my mind occupied leading up to the trip so it wasn't completely wasted.

I wasted money on food drops.
I had thoughts, some of them good, on ways to save money buying bulk and adding variety by planning ahead. However, I had no idea what food items I would get sick of a week in (almonds), a month in (Clif Bars), or items I would always eat everyday and continue to enjoy (Clif Mojo, Quaker Oatmeal Cookies). I ran into nutritional issues early on and lost 20 lbs in the first 40 days, and I wasn't over-wright. I wasn't eating all the bars I had on hand, breakfast wasn't big enough, everything was processed.
I added to my diet by getting the food drops and then going to a grocery store and buying all the things to fill in the gaps - which was most everything! So I wasn't saving time by having a food drop and going to a market in the same town.
I now have about 200 extra bars here at the house that I didn't need, not including the ones Cara has eaten while I've been gone, given away, or got lost in the mail (yeah that happens)! I hiked faster and shipped myself less by HALF from what I planned for - I was 2 boxes ahead by the time I reached the end of the Smokey's.
Never hike with more than 4 or 5 days of food, that is the 'break-even' limit, any more and it will slow you down or make you carry less food than you should be consuming. I had big plans to carry 7+ days of food and it was a huge mistake, the AT is almost always 2 days between places to get food, doing 4 or 5 days is just to relieve the pressure of going into a town that often.

Staying in the woods for more than a week isn't fun.
Between the lack of showers, prepared food, and just the same routine of setting up and breaking down camp more than 5 days became wearing. So really my hike consisted of many long-weekend hiking trips, between 3 and 6 days on the Trail before (preferably) getting a hotel room. Save enough money for this! I'm glad I didn't have to worry or spend time in hostels. Hostels are, for the most part, horrendous and a waste of time and money; full of the party crowd, fleas, sickness, snoring hikers, mice, unwashed sheets over dirty mattresses, and mooching disrespectful hikers. So basically all the drawbacks of sleeping in a shelter - except you're paying for it though you usually have access to a shower. There are exceptions, of the ones I stayed at I would recommend Hemlock Hollow in TN, and Woods Hole in VA. I would never go to Uncle Johnny's, Standing Bear, or Kincora seeing and hearing the state of those three made me very wary of any hostel going forward.
There is great pleasure to be had to having a private room, or as the case was in Damascus, an entire private house!
I did share a room at the Allenberry in Boiling Springs, PA with Daffy Duck and the Sterling Inn in Caratunk, ME with Dirty Girl. I made the right call both times, I was a good judge of character in both those situations and it did really help with the cost of the room.

I sent most of my gear home
Things like the Osprey Exos 58 breaking couldn't be helped, I would've gotten the same pack again had it been in stock, it wasn't so I switched to the Osprey Talon 44. The MSR Hubbahubba tent leaked a bit and was on the heavy side, so I changed first to a tarp tent (1lb), then eventually added a hammock (1lb) under that tarp. Of course I switched out my sleeping bag for a lighter one in warmer weather, and clothing too. Mostly I just sent stuff home! If I wasn't using something, or I could make due without it, or even better I could dual use something (my hiking poles in the tarp tent) I would unload it quickly! I got my base-weight 7 to 10 pounds lighter than when I started when I thought I HAD to have everything in my pack! At the end it was 16 or 17 lbs.
The gear list all hikers should have:
- Backpack
- Shelter
- Sleeping bag/ground pad
- cooking set (unless you go cold)
- Water purification
And that's it. Everything else should be food, first aid, comfort items, and what you're wearing.

Setting dates is a mistake
To tell someone that you will meet them at this place at this time is a burden you shouldn't bear! I did this the first time to meet Flip at Fontana Dam ten days after I started, that was a doable goal, however I shouldn't have pushed myself at the beginning like that. I shouldn't have assumed that I wouldn't have had to slow down or take days off that early in the trip because of overused feet and knees. I made it there by that deadline, but I paid the consequences by spending most of those nights in the woods, with sore knees and shin splints, and the days pushing to get there.
My next deadline was to meet WoodTeeth in Damascus. I did not make that date, I had to skip ahead a few miles and made myself sick pushing to get there. I did some good sized days and felt great, then I hit a wall and I still had days of big miles to do. If you are planning on 15 mile days and start doing 20s you need to eat equivalently more! It took me a long time to finally figure that one out. That was the last time I made a deadline for myself in that direction, the rest of the time I made it the opposite way, so I had to slow down to meet with Surplus in July.
You might get sick. You might wake up one day and want to do little miles. You might want to be able to stop and have a long lunch and a swim in a creek. Setting plausibly realistic goals can ruin portions of your hike! Just take it easy and let your friends come to you, they are in cars, and the AT crosses roads everyday.

Have enough money
There were quite a few hikers that couldn't stay in town at all unless it was a donation-hostel so they could not donate and stay for free. If you only have enough for food on the hike then wait another year and save double that. The immediate gratification of hiking will make the trip painful. Also being a constant moocher gives the rest of us hikers a bad name. There is a difference between accepting a ride or accepting Trail Magic or raiding a Hiker Box because it's there and relying on using other people because you are unprepared. You know what you're getting into, you know how much money you should have before starting. Don't expect people to do things for you just because you're hiking a Trail, you're not that special.

Take a Blue Blaze
Sometimes the planners of the AT got it wrong. Sometimes the best views are off the official Trail. This is more a matter of opinion, but I was in no way a purist. The picture below is the North Mountain Trail in Northern PA, it was a mile of awesome views, rock scrambles (like I thought PA was going to be), blue-berry laden bushes, and a sense of un-used trail giving me a sense of adventure. I asked hikers what the AT was like on the portion paralleling this, and it was flat, easy, and had very little rocks (like most of PA - don't believe the lies!!)
I had great side adventures on blue blazes, sometimes making better time, sometimes getting lost and turned around, seeing sights I never would've seen and giving me memories unique to any other AT hikers, 'cause they didn't see what I did!

I probably heard all of this advise before I began the hike. As is in evidence, I ignored it and thought I knew better. So heed this, or don't, you will figure out what works best for you. Enjoying the journey is the only thing the trip is about; a point I occasionally lost sight of, as all of us do, I think, even in life!

Big K

Is it really over? I really don't live in the woods anymore? I'm really going home?!
I have so many thoughts and feelings it will take awhile for me to sort all of them.
I left Monsoon on Tuesday and began the 100 Mile Wilderness. The day began wet, rain had been falling over night but the clouds appeared to be breaking up rapidly though. Five of us hikers got a shuttle to the nearby trail head. There was a lot of excitement everyone felt the end coming, felt the end of the Trail looming closer. Funny how spilt the mentality was, everyone was ready to be done, but half the hikers wanted to speed up and half wanted to slow down.
I was dropped off with: Tex, Craisin, Rebound, and Ranger. We stuck together for a bit, I passed them, later all but Tex passed me later. I was feeling real good, especially after the Trail dried out and the sun came out. The trail was a bit rooty and slippery, but I faired well and only had one minor fall on wet rock. Falling is always scary, it happens so fast and you have no idea if you are about to be in a world of hurt!
I did 19 miles the first day and made it to a windy cold campsite, Cloud Lake Leanto. I woke up early with plans to go as far as I could go! I came down out of the Barren Chairback range to a road crossing. I didn't know what my pace was going to be so I had a food drop hidden in a bucket here, I picked up the four additional days worth of food and headed up Gulf Hagas Mountain. Over the four peaks I headed, up the nice trail and well made steps. The Maine AT Club does a very good job on some portions, the amount of stone steps is incredible! On top of White Cap Mountain, as the sun was setting, I got my first good look at Katahdin. Still so far away, but so close. I stood staring feeling mixed emotions, relief that I was coming to the this hike, but with sixty miles left I also felt a large stirring of determination to get there! After 24 miles I got to Logan Brook Leanto and setup camp for one of the last times... I was very aware of the trip winding down, I would sometimes just pause and look around, trying to capture these memories, to imprint these last days. The days had been pleasant, the miles easy, I was feeling good and really enjoying myself, maybe because I knew I would be home shortly?
The following day the Trail left the mountains and crossed rolling hills and winded around lakes for the next 50 miles. I did 27 miles and camped next to a river. I skipped over going to the famous White House Landing, not needing a night in a hostel!
There were several good views of Big K, but mostly I was hiking through beautiful Maine flat land, over roots and rocks with sections of pine carpet floor. Another 25 mile day got me within 3 to the end of the wilderness! I shared Hurd Brook with an older guy, we sat and chatted for a long time, he was doing a long section hike with the intention of summitting the same day. The next morning the three miles to Abol Bridge went very quickly, in time for coffee! I had gotten a text to my parents letting them know I would be at Abol around lunch, not having cell signal I decided to wait to see if they were in the area. Also a good time to eat burgers and ice cream! I sat and chatted with the hikers there and a Trail Angel, the view of Katahdin from Abol bridge is spectacular! Can't wait to be able to upload pictures! After awhile Craisin, Ranger, and Rebound showed up just as I was about to leave. I was glad that I was going to be summitting with them - good guys! Into a wonderful warm periwinkle-blue skyed day I strode; the last nine miles followed a river into Baxter State Park, waterfalls and rapids making watery music. What a perfect day! I got in to The Birches, a long distance hikers campsite, late in the afternoon. I set up my tent and hammock one last time. I cooked dinner one last time, treated water, and readied myself for the next morning. A bit after dark another Trail Angel showed up in camp: with a cake! Thanks Jonathan! I set my alarm and woke easily and full of excitement at 4:45. I packed up and ate and headed down to the ranger cabin. Dropping off my full pack and taking a day pack I truly became a day hiker, my backpacking days of this trip were over! I got to the trail head and saw that a group of ten started the trail before me, I was imagining a mobbed summit - but I've been hiking for nearly give months, I can beat them up the mountain. The first couple miles of the trail to the top were great, following Katahdin Creek. The trail began to get steeper, and I soon passed the group of ten. Right at tree line Craisin caught up and we walked the rest of the way up... actually a lot of it was climbing! Up boulders and rock faces, along a incredible rock ridgeline to the tablelands. The wind blew chilly and I had to put a few more layers on. The last 2 miles was spread out before me, the summit still hidden. At last the top came into view! The celebration began in earnest! The sign I never really believed I'd see, I was now standing on it! Ranger and Rebound showed up quickly and we all congratulated each other, they spewed champagne all over. I got a bit of signal and got to talk to Cara for a few minutes! After pictures and lots of smiles we headed off the mountain. And that was it -the end of the trip, the summer of hiking over! An amazing trip, filled with pain and exhaustion, frustration and hunger. It was great at times and the most challenging task I ever committed to. There were good views, awesome weather, and fun people. At times I never thought I would ever get to the end, at times I wanted to quit more than anything. Next - going back and doing the Whites! So I am done hiking this Trail for now, but I'm not complete with this Trail. Am I happy that I have trail left undone, a reason to come back and do small sections? YES! I am very happy that I'm going home now, and I never want to be gone from home for that long again!

Here in Monson

I've made really good time through Maine, with good new friends and catching up with old too.
It's hard to imagine that this trip is really winding down! Where I stand is just over 100 miles from the end of the Trail! The hundred mile wilderness stands between me and the end, filled with rocks and roots, hills and river fords. Mountains, except Katadyn, are mostly behind me, the Barren Chairbacks and one other peak that are both much smaller than many already scaled. Hikers are getting all poetic and misty eyed, many are excited to be done, others have slowed way down to enjoy the moments.  The south bounders are all so new looking, except the flip floppers that have the thru hiker look about them.
The terrain in the last few days has been fantastic, in my esteem, I did quick miles and made the ferry over the Kennebec just before 4 pm and had a great stay at the Sterling Inn in Caratunk before doing a couple days of hiking to get here. I'm taking a zero here tomorrow to recharge my body for the final push. The Lakeside House where I'm staying has kayaks for use, so I'll be relaxing and playing around on the lake. Another reason to relax tomorrow is to ensure that I arrive at Baxter after Labor Day, as it would probably be madhouse.
Oh! I saw a moose, and she even let me capture her on camera before she gracefully crashed through the underbrush away from me. I've fallen asleep to the sounds of loons singing their mournful song, and the gentle lapping of a mountain lake lolling me to sleep.

New Hampshire... or not!

After Flip left me in Kent I started some steady days, first a 17 mile than a 21 than a 23... well you get the picture. Even with this pace I was able to stay in a hotel two of those nights. Don't stay in Great Barrington if you're on a budget, even the crappy hiker room was 150, ouch! I covered this briefly in the last post, but to show you where I am I need to show you how I got here!
So I soon passed out of CT and MA, very nice states that just flew by. The treadway was kind and the forest finally beginning to change into the New England feel. The first 1600 miles the forest is nearly indistinguishable, each state has patches that are remarkable, but for the most part the woods are very similar from GA thru CT. Mount Graylocke is topped with a spruce forest and extrordinary views, nice way to end the state. After a few more days of hiking I became in desperate need of a day off, my energy level began flagging and climbing up and over Stratton Mt was way more challenging than it should've been. I took a zero at Bromley Sun Lodge and felt a bit better, especially when I got to take the ski lift half way up the mountain when I began hiking again! Everyday there seemed to be afteernoon or evening thunderstorms, fortunately I was already in the tent or near a shelter when they came through. Then on Tuesday night after a 21 mile day I turned on my phone to see if I had signal enough to talk to Cara that I got a text from my brother, he was on his way to Maine for vacation and wanted to see where I was and if we could meet up. This was a great boon, my left foot has plantar facitis and had been very sore after all the big days. I happened to be on a road walk due to last years flooding from hurricane Irene. We spoke and Kev began making his way to find me in the back roads of VT. I sat on the side of the road and cooked dinner and read while waiting for him to arrive. What a change! From the woods to a hotel in Rutland in a matter of minutes. My foot has really needed the break. The next day I had a decision to make, have him drop me off at the Trail or have him take me to Franconia Notch to rest and wait for Cara on Friday. I flipped a coin and came to New Hampshire. My foot continued to hurt and I hobbled around, it finally began to ease up after 4 days of rest. I was surprised at how long it took for my foot to start feeling better. Plantar Facitis is painful when flared up.

After much deliberation I have come up with a plan, though not what I originally wanted, in the long run I believe this will make me enjoy the last bits of the Trail more than I might otherwise. I've decided to skip the Whites and get dropped off near Gorham, NH. I will have skipped nearly 200 miles of the Trail, so I will be a section hiker - granted the section I will have hiked is just less than 2000 miles, but I will be saving the best section for last. I will be able to not be in quite so much physical dissatisfaction, I will be able to hike with Cara and/or Flip, I will be able to take my time and enjoy the Whites - I feel if I did them now I would be trying to hurry through them. Lastly, the weather is very sketchy, and is typically this variable this time of year but it is apparently more stable in June and early July. But I am motivated to hike all of Maine currently; I am motivated to see Big K and finish the majority of this Trail.

I should be done 20 days after I get back on the Trail averaging 15 miles a day, though I expect to do bigger miles than that and doing some slower days in between. My thought is to get back on the Trail Wednesday morning August the 15th. I have already sorted and mailed the last 3 mail-drops at places in Maine that accept drops and pick-up hikers from the Trail. Maine has some of the longest journeys to get to town that there are! I specifically picked places that do hiker shuttles, I just hope I'll have enough cell service to get a hold of them, I can't walk 11 miles to get the drop-box! I am very forunate to have a place to stop and rest here at Lovett's Inn in Franconia, it was also great to have Cara come and visit, and to see my brother, and to hang out with Jim and Janet. My parents may be able to come see me at  Kataydin, Anthony may also, even Flip might. This updated schedule may throw them off, but I hope not.

I will probably not update again until I am done. But after I am done I will be collecting my thoughts and giving a more in-depth trip report along with things I felt I've done wrong/right and gear review about items that actually worked for me. Also I will be posting plenty of photos with descriptions. So stay tuned!