Gerhard Shelter on Great North Mountain

Saturday 22, 2011
Tania's birthday

Tania asked a few days before the weekend if I was able to go backpacking this weekend, it was her birthday weekend and she wanted to get away. Jim worked, so it was just the two of us.

 The night before Tania Jim and I went to Medieval Times, and got to bed fairly late. I woke up at 7 something on Saturday to do some last minute planning and preparation, moving the refrigerated items to my pack, getting on some of my layers, moving everything down stairs. As I was up and moving, Jim and Tania came down and she began packing also. We drank some coffee, decided to take her car, and loaded up.

On our way out of the city we stopped for gas, and then headed west, stopping right off of 66 at a diner for some lunch (with a gluten-free menu). We continued west, Tania driving the entire way, down 66 to 81 S to 55 W up over a mountain, and then turning off right before Wardensville. We missed the faded blue blaze of the Tuscarora Trail and had to turn around for it, but we made it to the parking lot at around 1pm.

We climbed out of the car and suited up, we began walking up the fire road to where the trail cut off and ascended the mountain, we stopped briefly so Tania could shed a layer as the ascent began. The trail had very long switch backs up the mountain, making for a nice climb, but not killer strenuous. Views began opening behind us as we got up high enough. The leaves were deep and untrod in places, attesting to the solitude of the hike. Many of the blue blazes were faded to near obscurity, and some of the switch backs sneaked up on us. The trail, once higher, shared the path of old logging or forestry roads, being fairly level and wide. Patches of snow appeared, mainly in the trail, all pristine until we walked on them.

Leave Only Footprints

The views really opened up behind us allowing for very nice views up the undeveloped valley. In the summer the places to see would be greatly diminished because of the tree cover, but there were some rocky outcroppings and then at the end of the ridge walk, getting close to the shelter, a few mountain meadows claimed the peaks.

The ridge ended and we began to descend quickly from the narrow peak. Soon enough the empty shelter came into view. The red structure was a pleasure to see! We dropped our packs and began setting up camp, after looking at tent spots around the shelter and assuming the wind would be coming from the west, we decided to setup the tent inside the shelter for double protection. Her Coleman 2-person we were using is not free standing, but she had set it up before on a platform. She began that task and I started a fire and gathered fire wood.

For Tania to get the tent to stay up, she put a stick through the loop where the stakes typically go, then she used the sides of the building and several large rocks to hold it up. It turned out standing up just fine, and the double protection from the wind was definitely warranted. The wind hadn't been blowing all day and the temperature was in the teens to maybe around 20. As the sun went down the thermometer dipped down to nearly 10.

Just as the sun was setting I began putting together the hobo dinners. Halving the carrots, meat cubes, onions, green peppers, and potatoes drizzled with olive oil salt and pepper. While I was doing this Tania heated some water for coffee and hot chocolate. The temp dipped but the fire was warm, the rocks of the fire ring had a "winter extension" where some previous camper had moved a smaller ring from the main ring closer to the shelter. I built up rocks behind the pit to act as a heat reflector. The hobo meals, wrapped in foil and on a bed of coals, cooked for over 1/2 hour, I used two sticks to flip and turn and pull more coals down. After I finished my coffee I set the cup down and very quickly I noticed the residual liquid was frozen solid. My Platy hose was frozen, as I didn't take my own advice (or actually advise gotten from Ally the week before) to blow the remaining water back into the hydration bladder before closing it, Tania followed the advise, and it worked fine.We roasted our feet by the fire, and cracked open several hot-hands. I put one in my sleeping bag and two in my pockets.

The dinners were ready, I hoped. I pulled one out of the coals and opened the foil, it looked perfectly done and smelled awesome, the moisture billowing out laden with the scent of cooked vegis and beef. We ate quickly, while the food was still warm out of our respective food dishes. We both finished every last bit. After we were done I broke out the birthday cake and someone had left a candle in the shelter.

Not exactly an auspicious birthday cake, but appreciated all the same I hope! We sat and talked, passing the flasks back and forth, enjoying the warmth of the fire and waiting to be tired. We stood up occasionally and stepped away from the fire to enjoy the star lit sky, wondering which way the moon would rise. Both of us saw separate falling stars, and enjoyed the hints of the Milky Way. The moon rose to our east, cresting over the far mountain, across the dark valley, the valley to our west was developed and much more grand, stretching to the horizon and to the mountains closer to Dolly Sods. The hour finally got late enough that sleep would probably come, at some point clouds had quickly socked in, the stars and moon obscured. I banked the fire, with hopes the coals would be good for the morning. I had put a couple rocks by the fire and before bed, wrapped them in cotton handkerchief and each of us put one in the sleeping bags. My rock stayed warm long into the night, warming my feet, while the handwarmers added heat to my mid-section.

I slept well, falling quickly into dreamland. I did wake when the wind began stirring the tarp partially hung by the entrance of the shelter. I didn't know if it was an animal or the wind stirring it at first. Once I could tell it was just the wind, I fell back asleep - though I did contemplate getting out and taking it down, I just didn't want to get out of the cocoon of warmth.

Sunday 24

I awoke after dozing for awhile to Tania crawling out to go to the bathroom. I laid there for awhile, my own bladder full, not wanting to give up the warmth and face the chill. I heard her stirring the ashes of the fire and figured she was up and not getting back in the tent, so I should follow the example. I put my contacts back in, threw on the down vest and headed out. The sun was shining, and we double teamed the fire and got her blazing again. Neither of us in a hurry, we sat and enjoyed the fire, and then some coffee. Tania's hard boiled eggs had frozen overnight and she attempted to thaw them by the fire, first on the rocks and finally in her cook pot. She then warmed an Ensure over the stove, and unfortunately burnt some on the bottom. Note to self, burnt Ensure = unappetizing!! As we sat there it began to flurry and then snow, the far mountain and valley obscured. Very shortly it stopped snowing and the sun came back, some snow still blowing in the wind lit up like glitter, making for incredibly beautiful scenery.

We began packing slowly. Enjoying the sun and the fire between tasks. In short order we were packed up and ready to go, by around 11am. After looking at the directions, the second half of the loop trail would entail dropping off the mountain directly into the valley and using a series of unmarked trails and fire roads, between the chance for getting mixed up the mile road walk and the lack of view, we decided to go out the same way we came in, for the views and the knowledge of the trail. The first 1/4 mile of trail gaining the ridge top again got our blood flowing, the views gorgeous with the clouds giving the distant views a splotchy look.

As blood flowed back into Tania's feet she stopped to pull off her boot and look, as she said it felt like a burning ember or a stick stuck between her toes. There was nothing there, but ultra sensitive toes, awaking from having no feeling. The wind was coming from the west, sometimes blustery on the ridge. My face was numb from it, but my body warm from the layers of clothing. As we got off the ridge line and began descending into the valley the wind lost its bite, and the sun was quite warming. We made it back to the car in 2 hours. Making it 24 hours and not seeing another human besides each other. This is a very secluded hike, and so much closer than Seneca Creek or Dolly Sods or even Three Ridges. As we got back to the car we saw the the creek was marvelous looking, frozen as it was. We dropped our packs and went exploring. I only busted my ass once, which was totally expected. I only partially fell through the ice and didn't get wet, which was unexpected - I assumed I would've gotten soaked!

 Hard to see, that icy spike

is about 2ft above the water

 Ice skating Legolas

All in all it was a very good trip. We hiked right around 10 miles. Stayed out in very cold weather all night comfortably. And had great conversation and story telling with a wonderful friend around a blazing campfire. What more can anyone ask for?!

Triumphant Tania

Three Ridges Wilderness in VA

Friday 14


I signed up for this meetup group trip early last week. There had been 12 people including myself signed up for it. On Thursday Jim Newman had mentioned that he may have to bail and that I would have to over-see the trip, as I am an assistant organizer for the Washington Backpackers Meetup Group. Jim also talked to another guy on the trip, and he seemed ill prepared and not really wanting to be apart of the group mentality, so fortunately he didn't come.
All ten people going were to meet at the Centreville Virginia Park and Ride. I got there about 30 minutes early, talked to Jim a few times on the phone, and the others began trickling in. First Steve with Damien and Ally riding with him, then Melissa (rhymes with monster) and Ming, Darwin and his two malamut dogs, Vessie carrying a bunch of equipment Jim and meet with her earlier to loan to the group, and last Jasen and Gary.We hurriedly went through the massive amount of equipment Jim had sent, and after polling everyone for equipment everyone owned, it was apparently that all involved were adept at backpacking and had the correct gear. We ended up grabbing a small wire grill, a 4 person 4 season 12 lb tent, and a bow saw. We ended up putting everyone in 4 cars and caravaning down route 29 towards our destination for 3 hours.
Three Ridges is situated very close to Wintergreen Ski Resort. We wound up the mountain and parked beyond the resort close to the Blue Ridge Parkway. We headed out from the parking lot at 10:30pm. After a few minutes searching for the Appalachian Trail we headed up, the trail quickly ascending a ridge steeply. We made it to the top and by earlier consensus we decided to head off the ridge to the shelter campsite rather than stay on the ridge for the night. After 1.6 miles we arrived at an empty Maupin Field Shelter. All of us quickly throwing out our sleeping gear on the floor of the shelter, with only Melissa and Ming opting to set up their tent. We started a small campfire and talked for awhile. One by one heading to the sleeping bag after passing around a bottle of whiskey.
The night was chilly, probably down in to the teens. I neglected to change socks and my feet were chilled off and on all night. Other than that I slept decently.


Saturday 15


I woke up after most everyone else was already out of their bags. I hopped up and packed most of my gear. I ate cold oatmeal and grabbed a bit of coffee from Darwin. I pulled out my food for the day and put it in my pockets so it would unfreeze from my body heat. Melissa and Ming were the last two up and packed. All of us antsy to be off. We had decided the night before to head south on the AT to the Harpers Creek shelter with all our gear, rather than setting up a base camp, and making a loop coming back up the Mau Hurr blue blaze trail.
Steve, Ally, and Vessie were to share Jim's tent, but after feeling the weight they decided to leave it at the shelter and hope that the next shelter was also empty. Steve brought a bivy so he was good to go either way.

We started the journey, heading up a thousand feet to the apex of the Three Ridges, the elevation gain sneaking up on us. The views down into the valleys east and west opening up in front of us. When stopping the wind quickly chilled us, and got us motivated to keep moving, the hills giving us warmth. Gary began having some leg cramps and Vessie gave him some leg cramp medication that seemed to help for awhile, until the cramps moved to other parts of his body. The conversation was lively, much more so when going down hills. We ate while hiking so didn't stop for an extended lunch. My feet were very cold to begin with, but after a mile of hiking, intense pins and needles shot through them and the circulation and feeling returned.
After 8 miles, the last mile down 2000 feet, we arrived at Harpers Creek shelter. The shelter was full of Boy Scouts. Steve went and chatted with them and they lent a tent to the girls to use for the evening since they occupied the shelter.

We all went about setting up our tents. I brought the one-man Sprite. There was plenty of space to set up camp down a ways from the shelter, over the hill from the Scouts. We all broke out food and dined a late lunch that continued until we made dinner. Everyone was very generous with the food they brought, everyone shared chicken and vegetables and sausage and coffee and liquor and anything else we had. Camp life was good! Soon a blazing fire and a huge stack of firewood was situated. The light began to fade from the sky after pumping water and cooking and all the other camp chores. After dark we began passing around flasks and wine. Everything was quickly consumed and we sat around the fire chatting listening to some quiet music. At about 10 or 10:30 we all got sleepy and headed to the tents, full and happy.
The night was much warmer, I think a combination of warmer temperature from a slightly lower elevation, and being in a tent made for a much more comfortable evening. I slept fairly well, but woke up every time I needed to roll over, my hip hurting from sleeping on one side or the other.


Sunday 16


Everyone rolled out of their tents generally the same time. We cooked breakfast, Darwin relight the fire to make some coffee. We all packed quickly and continued conversations from the evening before. Gary had been very sore the previous evening and continued to be hurting. He was worried he wouldn't be able to make it back to the cars, so his exit strategy was to head to route 56 and have someone come and pick him up from the all down hill trail. I said that I would go with him so he would not be alone in case anything happened. 

We all saddled up and headed up a hill for a 1/2 mile to the intersection with the Mau Hurr Trail. At the top of the hill Gary decided to stay with the group, as the trail distance to 56 and back to the cars was similar, if one being up hill and the other being down. At the top of this first climb, my heart beating happily in my chest, the soreness of the night before vanished and the coffee coursing through me, I was absolutely giddy, I couldn't help but smile, I couldn't think of anything I'd rather be doing at that moment.

The trail wound down around the side of a ridge then climbed 500 feet up switch backs, a very difficult hike, all of us overheating and thankfully stopping for a few minutes. The trail continued up for a bit before dropping down to a creek with astounding waterfalls and a campsite. Following the creek was a very difficult climb, rock scrambling and just placing one foot in front of the other, we gained elevation quickly, headed back to the saddle where the Maupin shelter rested. Towards the top we came to a dead coyote, the skin and fur perfectly preserved, but the guts all missing. We speculated on causes of death, and why it was preserved as it was.
In a short time we crested the last of the steep hills and made our way back to the shelter. Jim's tent was still there, undisturbed. A large group of identical tents were setup close by, with no sign of the owners, apparently some group of Scouts had made this their base camp. The last 1.6 miles went quickly, a short uphill and a long down hill to the cars. We unloaded our gear, changed our clothes and headed to the brewery at the bottom of the hill for a late lunch and some more camaraderie. Melissa and Ming left after a brew with Vessie, the rest stayed for lunch. We all headed back towards Centreville and DC. I got home to Baltimore at 8pm.

The group was very good. Everyone was cool and got along. No one was ill prepared. Steve told expansive stories of the past and all his hobbies: pictures of trains, HAM radio, micro-brewing, he is an extremely smart guy and has a lot of good knowledge. Damien seems to be looking for something, he mentioned that the AT sounded very interesting to him, very nice guy and a strong hiker. Ally is very capable and explores the world a lot, every chance she gets, also she has nice eyes. Vessie is just getting over a divorce and is all about getting back into life and trying new things. Jasen and Gary are very good friends, Jasen is competent and is a strong hiker. Gary wants to get back into shape to hike Mount Rainer in the summer, he is very gregarious and I had lots of good conversation with him - he pushed through his cramping and did great on the trip. Mellisa and Ming kept to themselves, some, but when in the group were participated in great conversation, both are strong hikers and very kind people. Darwin brought his male and female malamut dogs, which are just the best behaved big fluffy dogs ever, the boy growls when he is getting pet in the right spot, Darwin is from Ecuador, a very nice guy. I really hope to hike with all these people again! The generosity and cohesiveness of the group made for good times.

Sour Patch Kid

Thanks to Gary for providing pictures, since I left my camera in Baltimore.

The Planning Continues

    I learn more about long distance hiking almost everyday. In the process of planning to do the Appalachian Trail I am on a constant hunt for information. Coming across a great bit of information is like finding a puzzle piece that fits.
    Not only does the planning keep me excited about the trip but it keeps me hunting for those bits of information. I try to note the things I learn, or copy the Internet URL. I hope to retain all the bits and pieces I've been gathering. I have a couple documents that are constantly evolving and being updated with equipment lists, recipes, financial goals, and just thoughts and ideas. Being that it is over a year away from going all this is almost certainly unnecessary. But I have all these ideas, all the time! I have a burning desire to hit the Trail. At times I get depressed just thinking about how long I have to wait, but at the same time my spirits are buoyed at the thought of finally deciding that I will go. I live once. I am young(ish). I am childless. I have the financial ability to save for this with hardly any negative consequences beyond losing 6 to 8 months of pay. I am healthy and I have the drive. To let this confluence of fortuitous alignment pass by without jumping on it would be regretful. I could wax philosophically about letting life slip away... but I won't!
    Everyone is so supportive too. It's amazing how anyone in my life that I've spoken with at any length agree wholly I should go. Maybe there is a spark of passion in my eye? I certainly feel more alive just thinking about it. I have read a dozen books about other's AT adventures. I read people's AT blogs and WhiteBlaze forum's. Last year I went to Trail Days in Damascus, VA to hang out with the hiker's.
    Not only do I love the idea of a trail of such long distance, I love that much of it is in our backyards practically. I've been on bits and pieces of the Trail in NC, VA, WV, MD, PA - every time I imagine a thin thread stretching out before me to the terminus, connected by these white rectangles. An electric thrill runs up my spine. What's around the next bend in the green tunnel? The community of the Trail draws me as much as the Trail itself. I'm not the only one that feels as I do about the Trail. I want to meet the people. I want to spread good feeling to those that don't know about the Trail. Lead by example to weekenders and section hikers, both of which I currently am.
    I love the weekend trip that I go on. But there always seems to be a huge ticking clock in my mind. Longer trips, 10 days or so, the clock becomes almost silent by day 3 or 4 but then returns with thunderous noise by day 8 and 9. Being absorbed with time is something I am eagerly anticipating getting away from. I know there will be a schedule, but it seems like it will be a much less involved and demanding schedule. My worries will be boiled down to: move forward, eat, drink, watch the weather.
    I have read where some authors relate the Trail to a pilgrimage, some view it as a coming of age story, other's are looking for answers, or trying to beat a record. I am doing it for love, and removal of the things that breed dissatisfaction. On any given day I find myself angry and bored more than anything else. Mad at the car in front of me, short-tempered that the electronic device isn't as fast as I want it to be, annoyed that a loved one isn't giving me the attention I self-centeredly crave. Or bored, letting my mind melt into the inane TV I try to avoid, or the StumbleUpon site I'm clicking or the computer game. Or I nap out of boredom. I am only really happy when I am around friends, family, and loved ones and I am happy when I'm hiking, pushing myself to do something strenuous, either alone or accompanied . I'm tired of being angry. I'm sick of being bored. I go on this sabbatical to try to find a meaning deeper in life. I know a deeper meaning exists, just from the last paragraph - family, friends, loved ones, and strenuous labor give meaning to an otherwise gray dull life. I go in search of a way to enrich my life. I go to experience life more fully than I ever have.

I began this post with the intention of writing specifically about what planning I have so far done and what yet needs doing. Reading back through I like the direction the post  took instead. Sometimes it is difficult to articulate where I am. Mostly I just try to grin and ignore the anger and the boredom. But it is so prevalent, and so disgusting, I need to confront those emotions, try to understand where they come from.

Maryland AT - year end adventure

12/20/2010

The year is quickly winding down! And what a good year for travel and adventure. A year ago I was getting back from Hawaii. In January I went snowboarding for the first time, and climbed Old Rag in the ice. February drove to Florida on a whim. March I went to Brazil for 10 days. April I went to Seneca Creek backpacking and the Bahamas at the end of the month. In May I went Dolly Sods and to Trail Days. July I went back to Dolly Sods and to NY. August I went to the Outer Banks. September saw me back in Dolly Sods, solo. October I went to Utah to see Zion and Bryce Canyon. November back to Old Rag and NY. And December I hiked most of the Maryland AT in the snow. 

The latest trip went like this:

Friday 17th
Jim and I had discussed doing the AT in Maryland, seeing how much we could do and where we thought we could end. After some back and forth we decided we wanted to end in Harper’s Ferry. It was left to me to decide where we could begin and finish comfortably. After perusing the map I picked a drop off point about 9 miles north of the Pine Knob Shelter at MD 17 Wolfsville Road.
We got to the parking area after dropping my car off at Heather’s in Frederick and Jim driving to the starting location. Night had already fallen, so we climbed out into the chilly night, headlamps on as we threw on layer after layer of clothing. Packs loaded and heavy with water (I had 5.5L of liquid including water, wine, juice). The road where we parked was the bottom of a fairly large hill. Soon puffing our way up the hillside after finding the trail. We turned off the headlamps, the snow on the ground reflecting the ¾ moon strong enough for us to cast shadows. We quickly became warm. I pulled off my wool hat and stuffed it in my jacket, several hundred yards up we stopped to put our outer-most layer in our packs. At this point I fumbled for my headlamp, that was no longer on my head... or in my pocket where I’d stuffed my hat. Shoot! Already losing things! We dropped our packs and headed back down the hill, looking for my head lamp. I was ready to give it up and call it lost but Jim insisted we go a bit further down the hill. And there is lay on the trail, little bugger. I put it around my neck as a necklace the rest of the trip so I wouldn’t lose it.
We put our packs back on and ascended the hill once more, going up a few switch backs. Finally we crested the hill, while the valley behind us was small and dark the valley on the other side of the mountain stretched to the horizon and contained a multitude of lights. Hagarstown lay in that valley, as well as Route 70 and 81. The night was crisp and the air sharp, allowing a long view of the bright valley.
Now that we were on top, we would follow this ridge for 8 miles to the campsite. No large elevation gain or lose was to be had. The trail looked like only a few people had traversed it since the snow had fallen a day before. Wide and easy, Jim and I walked side by side talking about many things, joking, laughing, and sometimes yelling or howling at the moon. The world lay at our feet, the night around us ours. No wind stirred the barren limbs, walking kept us warm. The miles unwound from our boot heels. We hiked down past Pogo campsite and over a still flowing creek, unlike the water in our platypus and camel back bladder hoses. The temperature in the low 20’s had long since made the water sluggish and slushy in our water bottles. We ascended a small hill to pass Annapolis Rocks and quickly made our way to the shelter.
We arrived at the shelter at around 11pm, hoping it would be empty so we wouldn’t disturb anyone. There, shrouded in the darkness of the shelter, lay three prone forms, their packs hanging from pegs in the shelter. Jim and I opted to let them sleep undisturbed and go setup his tent on the tent pads close by. We threw the tent up, and tossed our stuff inside, one final snack and we hung out packs on the bear hanger and crawled in. We put our bottles up next to the outside of our sleeping bags to keep them unfrozen. Each of us had 2 ground pads, closed cell foam pad and children's Thermarest. Sleeping bags and liners to keep us warm to 0 or 5 degrees. I slept soundly, but apparently, according to Jim I snored and kept him awake.
Saturday 18th

I woke up at first light and rolled over for awhile longer. Finally I got up and crawled from the tent. I got my pack down and was preparing to start cooking on a snow covered rock close by the tent. The three guys that were happily snoozing from the night before were up and packing. One guy saw what I was doing and offered to share the picnic table. I gathered my things and went over to the shelter. I talked to them for awhile. One of the guys had recently joined Washington Backpackers Meetup group, so there is a good chance I will see or hear more from him. They all seemed like decent guys, going for a three day jaunt, about 8 miles a day. Today they would be stopping before our halfway mark and finishing on Sunday several miles short of where we planned to spend the night. My fuel canister was still a bit chiily so they let me borrow some hot water to soak it in for a minute or two, then the JetBoil did it’s trick and got our 2 cups of water rolling.
Jim walked up and talked just as the guys were packing it up. I had coffee and oatmeal mixed, Jim had hot chocolate but declined the oatmeal for a bar of some kind. After breakfast we packed up the tent and our gear and set off, going down the hill towards the crossing of 70. On the way down there were two hunters coming back from getting their feet cold that morning. The older gentleman pointed out bear tracks in the snow - sure enough, within ¼ mile of the trail a bear had wandered through! Very cool. Talking to the hunters, we found that it was black powder season and archery, both requiring a shorter shot, thus safer for us to be in the woods.

We crossed over 70 and over several roads in the three miles to Washington Monument. As we were arriving the guys from the shelter were just leaving. We stopped for lunch for about 25 or 30 minutes, looking at the view and snacking heavily. After getting chilly standing still we put the tack back on and headed down off the hill.
The next several miles went quickly, a few more road crossings and we caught up and passed one of the guys, the other guys had already made it to their camp for the evening by the time we went by the blue blaze for it. We began the ascent of the hardest hill yet. For 2 ½ miles we steadily gained elevation, nothing terribly steep, just constant. After trudging and stopping for me to get in touch with Heather briefly we reached the halfway for the day mark. The first part of the next 8 miles, a continuation of the hill. At the top we reached a ridge and cruised steadily for a couple miles.
In Gathland State Park we passed the Civil War Memorial to the War Correspondents and climbed back up from the gap to our final ridge walk as the sun was setting.

Across the valley to the west lay Gobblers Knob, a source of constant amusement. We were dragging by this point, stopping frequently, hoping this last push would happen quicker than it was, we talked about food often. The temperature dropping to the high teens. The last three elevation gains were brutal, though not long or steep, we were weary and drug our selves up each one, hoping the shelter was on the down slope of the next hill. Finally we saw the dark silhouette looming to the left, suddenly our energy level notched up and we strode defiantly into camp, heads held high, Jim laughing maniacally, as he does. The Ed Garvey shelter, 16.5 miles from where we began our day! The shelter stands with a view into the valley east facing, two stories, the top floor having plexglass windows and a door, though still open the chill.

I went about getting food out and ready while Jim went about fire making, our old comfortable roles, done without speaking or telling each what to do. I put the fuel canister in my jacket while cutting up the sausage and getting stuff out. By the time I’m ready to heat water for the Couscous Jim has a nice fire blazing away, melting the snow off the logs placed by the fire. We fry the sausage on sticks over the fire, starring enamoured into the warmth, drinking the wine sharing the couscous from the same bowl. Jim breaks out some gingerbread cookies that were just divine. We climb the ladder stairs and lay out the sleeping gear, I toss my water bottles and fuel canister in the bottom of the bag, then clothing I’m not wearing. Lastly, I put on sock liners, hot hands, then wool socks over that. My feet will be toasty tonight! I go to sleep quickly. Apparently I snored again.
Sunday 19th
I wake with dreams that people are downstairs. I hear Jim thrashing around and assume he is getting up to pee. I hear birds chirping and fluttering downstairs. I finally get the gumption to get dressed and get out of my sleeping bag. Apparently Jim’s thrashing had more to do with him waking up in a puddle of water. His camel back nozzle got rolled on to, leaking water, he rolled again to get off of it some how making it gush. Some of his clothing was wet, pants and shirts, as well as his liner. For the last hour he had been very cold, curled into a ball. We got up and moving quickly, that being the best for being chilled. Hot chocolate coffee and oatmeals later we headed out of the very nice shelter. We had enough water still to get us to Harper’s Ferry so we didn’t have to go down the Steep! ½ trail to the spring. Just as we were about to leave 3 kids camp up, they may have been around 20, two boys and a girl, doing the 4 state challenge from VA to PA. They had started at 3am and planned on finishing by 3am. They mentioned that there was another group ahead of them, maybe I had heard real voices and not dream voices?

After leaving the shelter we went up a small incline, enough to get the blood flowing and the extremities warmed, feeling coming back to my fingers and toes. We quickly made it to the top of Weaverton Cliffs. We dropped our packs and went down to the over look, viewing the Potomac River and seeing where we were heading off in the distance. The trail down the cliffs was very quick, over a secondary road and under Route 340 we made it to the C&O Canal. I called Heather and let her know our where abouts and started heading the 5 miles to Harper’s Ferry. Our pace on the towpath gobbling up the miles very quickly. We made it the railroad bridge into town after seeing three trains on the busy tracks we paralleled. Harper’s Ferry stood out in beautiful relief, as always, with the added beauty of snow clad hills and icy rivers forking around it. As we walked into town I called Heather and she was very close by, Jim and I made our way to a very nice place to eat and she soon joined.

After stopping at the Outfitters and the ATC we headed back to Jim’s car and dropped him off.
This trip was a pleasure, it was also a very good test, as neither Jim nor I have done much cold weather camping recently, with the gear we now posses, and we hadn’t done that distance in a long while either. We are both sufficiently up to the task of handling it and enjoying ourselves doing it too!

Thanksgiving in the Finger Lakes

11/24-11/28/2010

Not an adventure blog, but I was away. And I didn't shower for 4 days... so it's enough like camping that I am posting.

I drove to New York to the Finger Lakes where my brother lives. He lives mostly off grid, at least his house and property are off the grid. He still uses gasoline and other modern infrastructure, so in the strictest view, he is still on-grid.

Some back ground, my brother has problems with modern society, rampant consumerism, and more than anything, authority. This doesn't make him far left or far right, politically. He considers himself right, as he identifies with the hard-working blue collar folks. However, he lives further left than most, but for different reasons. He contends that modern society as it 

 stands now cannot continue indefinitely, he is of the opinion that there will be a collapse, probably within our life time. He is a very smart, passionate guy. His opinions are formed with (albeit selective) research. The genesis of this world view of his stretches into the hazy past. He was enamored with 'My Side of the Mountain' growing up. He delved into wilderness survival with gusto, learning edible and medicinal plant identification - practicing his skills in and out of scouts. The second most important book to steer his thinking was 'The Last Hours of Ancient Sunlight' by Thom Hartmann - a book dedicated to the theorized Peak Oil crisis. I read the book as well, and there are some very valid concerns. There are two schools of thought, one that Peak Oil is an unresolvable crisis, that once oil becomes economically unfeasible, that population levels will dramatically fall back to pre-oil levels (about 1 billion), meaning there will be a mass die off through war, starvation, lack of medical treatment, and lack of survival skills. This is the school of which my brother prescribes. The other thought process is that with a slow decline, people will be able to spin up other sources of fuel, hopefully renewable, to compensate for the disappearing "easy" fuel that is crude oil. I tend to fall in with this group, and that we won't see the squeeze of the need for a complete change to other fuels in our life times. Sure, I want my children's world to be a better place, but I think a slow transition to the next level will happen. Just from an economic view, once the demand for oil becomes price prohibitive other sources will be found.

Ok, enough back ground, getting off the soap-box.

Anyway, my bro decided to be proactive about it. He bought some property in NY on a side of a mountain. The 9 acres has a gorge with a typically flowing stream, a few nice pasture areas an old apple orchard and mixed hardwood and pine maturing forest. He built a cabin over five years ago. I helped some with that. He has added a porch and enclosed the porch as the kitchen. He is digging out the hill behind the cabin and plans on adding another room there. He plans on building a wrap around porch on the front of the cabin. On the property he has made a 20 by 20 work shop, several sheds, a horse barn (no horses yet), chicken house, pig pen, a small garden, and a root cellar.

I visit from time to time and it is like stepping back a hundred years (except the lighting). The water is collected from a rain barrel (the stream comes through a sheep farm on top of the mountain, so cannot be used), the LED lighting is powered off a few deep cycle batteries charged by solar panels - unless it has been exceptionally cloudy, then he runs a gennie for a few minutes to give them enough charge for the evening. The batteries aren't enough to run TV, computer, or anything beyond the LED and CFL lights nightly. Thanksgiving dinner was cooked on the woodstove, the turkey in the woodstove oven. 

On Friday I occupied myself in Watkins Glen, on the wine trail of Seneca Lake, and on the Keuka Lake Outlet Trail connecting Penn Yan to Dresden. The last an interesting trail I would like to bike and explore some more in the summer, or at least when there aren't hunters around. I found some interesting ruins off trail, I can never seem to stay on trails. I speculated that there was a towpath. The link confirmed my suspicions as well as explained there were some 30 mills, which must explain the helter skelter ruins I came upon.

I had no real high adventures. Hunting is serious business in these parts. I wanted to hit the Finger Lakes Trail, but some of it crosses private lands closed for the season, other parts cross public lands, dangerous in this season. I didn't have any blaze orange to sport and didn't want to mess up any one's shot by scaring their prey. Oh well, next time.

Old Rag Backpacking

11/12/2010
I met Anthony at his house after work on Friday afternoon. From there he drove to Heather’s house in Frederick. We set out in Heather’s Element, after stopping at the Coffee Company and Chickfila I drove. The directions were easy from Frederick: S340 to S522 to Sperryville and S321 to a right on Sharp Top Rd. Heather passed out in the back, after all week of working nights. Once there, she said the trip only seemed like it took five minutes. Anthony and I chatted, him keeping me awake and being the DJ.
We pulled into the lower parking lot - a blast of arctic air banishing the warmth inside the Element. We took some things from our packs - mostly warm layers of clothing. My layers consisted of: a blue long sleeve under-shirt, a T-shirt, a heavier pull over with pockets and a Mt hardware wind stopper jacket. I also wore a fuzzy hat and had the gloves out. The temperature was below freezing, but not by much. Heather talked Anthony into taking a fleece that she’d grabbed from the house on our way out of Frederick. Anthony had also purchased some smart-wool socks at REI a few nights before.
There was no envelope to leave the required $25 park entrance fee, but I did fill out a backwoods camping permit form. We headed up the road from the parking lot at about 9:30pm. By the soft glow of our headlamps we made our way up the black top road for nearly a mile until we reached the Old Rag parking lot, now closed to vehicles. We took the fire road up Weakely Hollow to look for a campsite, figuring the ground in the valley would be easier to find flat spots. We crossed the 4 bridges and the road begins sloping up a little bit, on this ascent a descent open area right off the fire road was seen. Anything further into the woods was shrouded by night.
Heather and I set up the tent. We always work so smoothly together. Nothing needs to be said, we just do what needs to be done. In no time the tent was setup, by headlamp and candle lantern. Inside Legolas lit the interior as we tossed our gear inside.
I hung the bear bag with help and an audience. After getting it lofted, we all climbed into the tent and crawled into our sleeping bags. I went to sleep quickly and slept soundly.
We woke before the sun crested the hills. The morning was brisk. We climbed out into the chill and broke camp, knowing Jim was meeting us somewhere. The sun slowly creeped down the hillside above us, finally warming us upon reaching down to us.
We put our packs on and hiked back towards the way we came. Over the bridges I saw Jim headed our way. He was a little mad as he couldn’t find us, and I had told him we were coming in Anthony’s car but had opted for Heather’s at the last minute. We walked back down the road to the vehicle to switch out some gear, pick up food for dinner, and redistribute the wealth. The parking lot was very full and there were quite a few people passing us going towards the mountain. 

After we loaded our packs we headed back up the road and after a quick stop for a picture at the bottom, we began the trail.

We took our time going up, allowing various day hikers walking faster than us laden folks pass us from time to time. The conversation was easy, and the couple miles quickly disappeared. Anthony did very well, though sweating profusely, we didn’t stop for any type of substantial break until we got to the first overlook, even that was less than 5 minutes. I was very impressed at how Anthony has progressed over the summer. Easter of this year Ant and I went on the Skyline and he struggled coming back from the waterfall, and crawled going back to the car up the road. This time he just kept going, keeping a very good pace too.

At the first real rock scramble Jim, Heather, and I kept our packs on, as we could shimmy, squeeze, or clamber up or around the crevice the trail surmounted. Ant took his pack off, and after some coaxing and some pulling got beyond the obstacle. While waiting, an older woman, maybe in her late 50’s fell off the slippery part of a rock going around the crevice. She fell about 5 feet on to her back. Jim and Heather both lent there medical knowledge, but she wasn’t hurt, or so it seemed, just shaken.
From this point on the trail became a series of scrambles, and climbs, some fairly easy, some a bit harder. At one point, after passing through the cave and the balancing rock a line formed on the trail, and wasn’t seeming to move. A narrow, quite rocky area, with a rope for an assist, was bottle-necking the trail. Jim became impatient and used an alternate, albeit, much harder, route... just the way he likes it! Heather also went that route. Anthony couldn’t have made it that way and choose to stand in line. I wanted to be there for Anthony, in case he needed a hand up, or a push up. Heather grabbed his pack from him, so it would be one less thing to mess with. While Ant and I were waiting in line and making our way Heather was helping a downward ho! group around the other way, passing packs down. Jim was helping some people up as well. In the crevice, Ant and I finally made it to the ‘technical’ part. On his first try he wasn’t hold ing the rope very well and slipped, on the second try I got a (unfortunate) good grip on his ass and heaved him up. Once he was cleared, I grabbed the rope and walked right up, with my pack on. It took him and I less than a minute to get up and through, still not sure why it was taking so long in the line.
Once beyond this, the hardest part, we made our way to a couple more false peaks, around a few more scrambles, to the top. We took pictures by the summit sign, then went and climbed up a boulder. A small pool of rain water stood on the top, and Heather and Legolas got a good photo opportunity. 

The sun was getting the late afternoon hue to it. We decided not to dawdle too much since we didn’t want to make camp in the dark again. We headed down the mountain, the elevation shedding quickly. My big toes hurting (note to self: cut your damn toenails jackass). Anthony decided he wanted a summit rock, some hippy chick heard him and handed him a piece of quartz. Not satisfied, he continued to search for a flat rock, Heather helped in his search.
The back side of the mountain is steep, and drops quickly to a fire road. There is a shelter and an out house at the beginning of the road. There were several camps of large groups, probably Scouts close at hand. That, as well as the water supply being rather far away, had us come to the consensus to head down to a side trail. Jim offered to run (quite literally) ahead to the path and find a suitable campsite. Anthony seemed a little worried that we would somehow lose him. I wasn’t concerned, and the day was getting late. Jim had the desire to have a fire for the evening and collect the wood and make the fire pit for us. We all set off, Jim disappearing around the next bend with easy speed. The next couple miles were very easy, on a well graded un-used road. We made good time to the cut-off trail. We crossed the creek at the beginning of the side trail, following it up into a valley. The ground looked very rocky, and I was wondering how far Jim had to go to find a suitable place for tents and bivy. Around another bend, and I beheld a raging campfire. We made our way to an empty beef jerky bag on a stick to mark the camp, had the fire not been visible. In camp Heather and Anthony setup the tent, after finding a good place for it. Jim setup a tarp and bivy shelter close by. I began making dinner. Cutting up and frying sausage, cutting up celery, onion, green pepper, and tomato and frying it in the grease of the sausage. While this was going on I began boiling the brown rice I had put water in at lunch. Note: [Next time put water in the rice at breakfast and soak all day. It took 20 min of boiling and the rice was still a tiny bit crunchy.] Added to the rice after boiling for a bit: crushed red pepper, tomato paste from a squeeze tub, salt and pepper, cayenne pepper, and tabasco sauce. Had I known Anthony’s aversion to hots I would’ve added less and let each of us add to taste. He didn’t complain, and he ate it all though. The goulash turned out all right, but it was way too fuel expensive and heavy on the fresh vegetables.
All the time during cooking, after setting up his shelter, Jim gathered firewood. By the time dinner was ready he had a sizable stack... and this after breaking my saw, snapping the blade of it. Dinner was served and everyone seemed to enjoy it, human sumping the bits left in the bowls and cups. We went through the wine in no time, and passed around the flask while the sky got dark and the fire grew warm. After clean up and some rest Heather Anthony and I went to pump some water. Anthony seems to have an irrational fear of running out of water and drinking more that he actually does. Ant watched as I pumped 3 liters and Heather held the tube in clear flowing water. Back in camp we hung the bear bag and after banking the fire, headed to our nylon cocoons of warmth. A crawled into my bag, synched the draw string, and disappeared until the morning, falling asleep quickly, and only waking a few times to roll over. I didn’t slide, even though the slight slant we were on, Heather slide more toward Anthony as I was at the top of the hill. I was quite warm, hot even to begin with, in my liner and bag.
We woke around the time of first light. We took our time getting out of the bags, finally motivated by the need to pee and the desire for coffee. We boiled water to make oatmeal and hot chocolate and /or coffee for all in Heather's JetBoil. After breakfast I ran to the stream to fill up and clean the pump filter. I pumped three liters. I arrived home with all of it unused.
We broke camp and confidently strode back down the fire road, after letting Anthony take us out of camp as a training exercise. He needs to work on his awareness of where he is and how to get out. 

He crossed the path without realizing. These skills take time, and granted this path was much less used and more covered in leaves. But the blue blazes were still visible, just un-noticed by him.
We made our way back to the car with good conversation and into a lightening and warming day. The parking lot, was again packed full of day hikers. We hopped in the car and headed to second breakfast in Sperryville.
We drove back, tired sore but content with the achievement of conquering Old Rag in full pack.

Lessons From Utah

Note: I write about gear after using it in the field. Some of this is reiteration from the journal entry, but I am more gear centric and less experience oriented in these blurbs.

10/11 -10/12/2010 The Narrows
As Jim and I did 2 separate overnighters in Zion, I will count them as different training hikes, as they were two vastly different adventures!
We began by getting a shuttle to Chamberlain Ranch beyond the northern border of the park, hiking down a private dirt road to get access to the beginning of the Narrows. I have written a journal concerning these events in another document, so I will just give the highlights here, and things I learned about the equipment I brought and food.
The pack was around 40 lbs, maybe a tic over. I brought 5 liters of water - 3 in Heathers Platypus and 2 Nalgens. It was a less arid environment in the Narrows (more like east coast humidity levels) so we ended up not having to pump water the entire time and ending with water to spare. The Platypus must be delicately placed in the pack or the hose will kink and you’ll be without water unless you stop, unpack your entire pack, unkink, and try again. Verily a pain. Jim’s water bag had a more inflexible tube and didn’t have the issue.
The Sprite tent is fantastic, plenty of room for boots and clothing, room in the vestibule for the pack. The tent is rather stake happy, and there seems to be a disparity between the foot print and the tent, I need to look at the directions to see if I’m doing it correctly before getting stuck in a monsoon, though I do want that to see how sea worthy she is.
The cook ware worked fantastically, nice and light-weight. I carried the 2 pots and larger lid. This was plenty for all our 2-person needs, and would probably be needed at times solo, so I will probably carry the same. Note to self: don’t forget utensils!! Luckily Jim had a knife/fork/spoon set to let me borrow a piece. Which remind me, the spork is great, but a 2 piece utensil kit, I think is necessary - leave the butter knife at home though... that’s what the folding knife is for.
Items borrowed and used from Heather (in other words, equipment I need to buy): compression Granite Gear water proof stuff bag for the tent, 3 water proof bags for toiletries, clothing, and general/emergency items, folding Buck knife, heavier rain/insulated pants, camp cup, Platypus water sac.
For dinner in the Narrows we went the pouch route - no waste or need of a sump - especially important since there is no good place for that in the canyon, in fact we were told to pee directly into the river (and poop in a foil bag), as that was more sanitary than a bunch of people peeing on rocks and getting a urine funk. Between that and the ranger telling us not to even pump water outside of the northern park boundary due to farm run-off, I was quite satisfied not having to use any water from there. The pouched food was tasty, however, the directions need to be modified and played with at home. Using the directions on the pouch lead to too much liquid, as we’re not boiling any off and rather bland noodles. The soupy cheesy liquid was delicious tho, and after a dehydrating day the salty liquid would be a good replenishment. I will need to experiment at home to get a good balanced consistency. Also I only used water, and didn’t add powdered milk, like I probably should have, as thickener. The added beef jerky was a much needed supplement to the concoction.
The next morning we tried huevos rancheros - freeze dried eggs. The stove immediately started burning the stuff, so there was that taste to sour the possible tastiness of it. Reminder to myself, there are a few tricks to Isopro cooking: turn it all the down to just above sputtering, don’t leave the pan sitting on the stove - to regulate heat even more hold it above the burner a few centimeters. Also we had a summer sausage, we decided to slice up half of it and fry it up - it was pure heaven in my mouth! By far the best way to eat it.
There wasn’t too much unneeded equipment lugged thru the Narrows - it was a bit warmer then expected, but safe to have warm clothing had I fallen in the water and got soaked. I didn’t use rain gear, though again it would’ve been needed had it rained (then again if rain was forecast we wouldn’t have been there), didn’t use the collapsible Nalgen Heather let me borrow (must buy her a new one since James promptly made it a smellable by putting Propel in it). Of the other things brought, I should have left the disposable hand warmers, sleeping bag liner, glow stick, shot glass, flask, and one of head lamp behind - I carried 2 head lamps and a candle lantern - none of which were used, as I was asleep before dark and awake after sunrise.

10/14 - 10/15/2010 The West Rim Trail
I bought a folding spork at the outdoor shop, since I left mine at home. I left this one in the car and had to borrow one from Jim’s set again.
The first day was fairly flat and we made excellent time. No blisters, no pain, no rain. The pack fit great, boots, socks, poles, knees gave me no issues whatever. This time we took the same amount of water as we did in the Narrows, however we ended up pumping 6 additional liters at the spring near camp (8) so it was obviously much more arid on the top of the canyon. It was also much cooler at night, there was a light frost. The sleeping bag and tent kept me snug - always wear comfy camp socks to bed, makes such a big difference.
The next day we had a couple hundred feet elevation gain, and then several (3) thousand feet elevation lose. My right heel began hurting and I started limping a bit. A small blister formed there. It may have been the sock/liner combination I had on, but tend to think it was just all that downhill. My knees were no worse for the wear, so I’m happy about that. Blisters now, mean tougher feet then! Knee pains don’t build calluses.
Other than that, I saw no additional equipment quandaries or unnecessary items.
We brought spaghetti for dinner, and a fresh onion to add. I didn’t have the gumption the evening before to put the sauce in the reusable container, so Jim carried it for naught, and I carried a full jar of sauce. The cooking of pasta is fuel intense, as well as messy. The onions were a nice touch, fried separately again - but we were not trying to conserve fuel. In fact we were trying to use it, as we knew we couldn’t take the canister home with us. I did notice, as it was breezy, that others had set up a rock wind shield for cooking. Even with this the stove would get blown out if the flame was too low, and burn the food if put higher. I could clearly see which way the wind was coming from while watching the water begin to boil - only one side of the pot would get the bubbles on the bottom and it took a couple minutes longer to boil. I need to make or buy a flame proof bib to go around the stove - I’ve seen other backpackers with these, and have found it is not a fruitless investment, but nearly required in some circumstances - plus directing the heat (especially to make boiling faster) will save a lot of fuel over time.
We tried the huevos again, but the twist was I brought flour tortilla wraps, unused BBQ chicken from dinner the night before, and hot sauce. Un-burned, they still were not very good, and rather expensive. Next time I’ll stick to oatmeal!